Surabaya, basically a dump. Central Surabaya where we’re staying, a hellhole. Not one for the must-see-before-I-die list. As second largest city in Java (and Indonesia) it’s a central transport hub, hence why we’re visiting. Fly back to Bali from here in a few days so will have a night-over then, but before that it’s the most practical route to get us from Yogyakarta, in Central Java, to Malang and Mount Bromo in East Java. Caught train from Yogyakarta. 5½ hours, executive class [photo]. A long time but kids were fantastic, and the carriage so much better than expected (thankfully!), clean, tidy, roomy, even complimentary in-flight refreshment of Danish pastry and carton of water. Supposedly air-con, if it was then no way we’d have survived non-air-con, fidgettingly warm near the end. Staying in 4-star hotel to alleviate any accommodation discomfort. However, Indonesian 4-star!!! Room smelled of cigarettes, carpet stained and holed. Air-con leaked to puddle on floor, shower wouldn’t stay overhead, wardrobe doors off their runners and wardrobe light permanently on. The consolation, relatively cheap (GBP20) and an eat-all-you-want buffet breakfast. Yummy! Ventured out to a couple of nearby shopping malls, one which guidebook said had an M+S (Jill looking for a new shirt!). Streets hazardous. Pedestrian crossing futile and pointless. Waited and waited. Nothing. A couple of local guys showed us the approach, walk out into road and cross one lane at a time. A kind of leap of faith approach. Not many pleasant sights en route, much squalor and poverty. Not good!