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  05/01/2004 - Gili Air, Lombok

Moved off Lombok to a tiny island, the smallest of three just off the Northwest coast of Lombok, called Gili Air. Tranquillity personified [photo]. No cars on the island just a dozen or so horse and cart taxis; a few brick built buildings, mostly bamboo; no natural fresh water, and just an hour to walk round half the island (that’s with Ben!) [photo]. Spent 4 nights here to reduce the average daily spend after our Christmas indulgences in Bali and choosing New Year to stay on Lombok with it’s seasonal surcharge. Not much to do other than relax, watch others relax, avoid getting sunburnt and cooling-off in the sea or the pool when you’re too hot. Aahhh! One common daily activity is decline the ubiquitous beachside sellers and touts. Another is haggling. Have to bargain for almost everything in Indonesia, and it’s no different here. Generally nothing has a price on it. The ice-cream man wheels round the island on his bicycle, box full of ices shackled to the back. His imminent arrival announced by a signature tune similar to the Mr Whippy vans back home. A “How much?” enquiry triggers the response “10,000 rupiah” (about 65p), a Cornetto, a Magnum, even the most basic lollipop the same. If I picked up an empty wrapper he’d probably say “10,000 rupiah”. And, even having bought something from him one day for 3,000 rupiah (20p) the starting price the next is still 10,000 rupiah. Very tiring! Had a tropical storm last night, forks of lightning, booms of thunder, lashings of rain. First serious rain of this year’s rainy season. Saw it brewing in the distance over dinner. Got back to the bungalow before it arrived and sat out and watched it from the veranda [photo]. Quite refreshing from the non-air-con bungalow. We’ve also enjoyed company with some great people.

Jill Paul Leala Ben